There is a town in Piedmont where the river flows against the current: the Nigoglia emissary, which instead of descending toward the lake rises toward the north, so much that an old local saying calls it the “river that goes uphill”. And it happens to be that this anticonformist vein also accompanied the birth of Gianni Rodari, the writer born in Omegna who, in turn, went counter to the prevailing schooling and pedagogy of his time, insisting on a vision in which imagination, creative error, and the children’s viewpoint mattered more than the rigid dogmas of adults.
Overlooking the shores of the Lake Orta, Omegna offers much more than a quick stop: among medieval alleys, panoramic climbs, and a pastry tradition waiting to be discovered, it deserves a full day. Did you know, for example, that here the moka Bialetti was born, which forever changed the coffee ritual in homes all over the world, and the excellence of Alessi and Lagostina? All brands that transformed everyday objects like pots and utensils into design pieces recognized worldwide.
Here are our tips on what to do and see in Omegna.
What to do and see in Omegna
The best way to discover Omegna is to take a walk along the Nigoglia, following its unusual course to the heart of the historic center. From there you can climb toward Alpe Mastrolino, a route that rewards you with an overall view of the lake and the city’s rooftops, or push on to Monte Zuoli, where the forest hosts the Gardens of the Cake in the Sky with installations dedicated precisely to Gianni Rodari.
Back in the center, the Vatican Quarter alleys deserve a slow pause, among viewpoints that tell the oldest soul of Omegna. Not to miss the Collegiata di Sant’Ambrogio Church, an example of Romanesque architecture altered over the centuries, and naturally the museum “A Fantastic Story”, the first interactive space in Italy entirely devoted to Rodari’s universe.
Those who love the lake can choose between a boat trip to discover corners visible only from the water, a lakeside walk with a sunset aperitif, or a decidedly unusual experience: pedaling directly on the waters of Lake Orta aboard bicycles with special floating wheels.
To end on a sweet note, Omegna has its own tiny cookie map, one variety for each pastry shop. The Imperialine, present since 1937, the Reginette, very similar but with a heartier gianduja cream, and the Duchesse and Damine variants. Completing the tasty map are the Perdigiorno, square biscuits dedicated to Giovannino Perdigiorno, the protagonist of one of Rodari’s most beloved books.
The Feast of Saint Vito
From August 21 to 31, Omegna transforms for eleven days into a large open-air stage for the 123rd edition of the Feast of Saint Vito, one of Piedmont’s oldest patron celebrations. The religious tradition, tied to the arrival of the saint’s relics on the lake in 1611, culminates on August 29 with the procession of the reliquary through the streets of the historic center.
But it is the show on the water that makes the event truly unique: three pyromusical evenings illuminate the gulf, with a finale on August 30 entrusted to international professionals and, for the first time, to barges placed directly on the lake to amplify the view from every corner of the city.
Where it is and how to get there
Omegna lies at the northern tip of Lake Orta, in the province of Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, in Piedmont. By car it is reachable along the A26 motorway, exiting at Gravellona Toce, just a few minutes from the center. By train, the town sits on the Novara–Domodossola line, with direct connections from Milan (about an hour and a half) and from Turin, changing at Novara. The nearest major airport is Milan Malpensa, about 40 minutes by car.
