Pinus heldreichii, or Heldreich’s pine: one of the names by which the loricate pine is known, the symbol of the Pollino National Park. A unique, spectacular tree, with a slim, solemn trunk from which bare, twisted branches emerge, thick with dark green needles. The term loricate, commonly used to identify it, derives precisely from the appearance of the adult bark, which forms gray plates reminiscent of lorica, the armor of the Roman soldiers. It is an extremely hardy plant, one of the few able to survive on the slopes of the mountains in this rugged and beautiful corner of southern Italy. In 2018 a radiocarbon study identified, in a loricate pine of the Pollino Park, the oldest tree in Europe, aged at 1230 years.
Exploring these mountains, among gorges, meadows, and the cool shade of loricate pines, is a genuine treat to grant oneself in summer. The Park spans a vast, rugged territory, with spots shaded by ancient beech forests and traversed by winding streams. There are peaks above two thousand meters, long trails, and expansive panoramas. A true paradise for those who have chosen trekking among less-visited mountains as the goal of their summer.
The Pollino National Park: history, location, and how to reach it
With its 192,565 hectares of extent, the Pollino National Park is the largest national park in Italy. It stretches across two regions, Basilicata and Calabria, embracing the provinces of Potenza, Matera, and Cosenza and including as many as 56 municipalities within its boundaries. The territory is organized around several mountain systems, part of the southern Apennines: the Pollino Massif, which gives the name to the protected area, the Orsomarso Mountains in Calabria, and Monte Alpi in Basilicata. The highest summits are on the Pollino, where Serra Dolcedorme represents the top at an altitude of 2267 meters.
The park’s headquarters are located in Rotonda, in Basilicata. The park’s history is relatively recent: it was established as a National Park in 1988, although the management bodies began operating concretely only between 1993 and 1994. In 2015 international recognition arrived with inclusion in UNESCO’s Global Geoparks list, a title that underscores the exceptional value of its geology: sinkholes, dolines, large springs and karst canyons carve an underground landscape as fascinating as the surface one.
In 2017 the Faggeta Vetusta di Cozzo Ferriero was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, a recognition extended in 2021 to the Faggeta del Pollinello, within the dispersed site Ancient Primordial Beech Forests of the Carpathians and Other Regions of Europe.
Getting to Pollino National Park requires a bit of planning, especially since the area is vast and the zones of greatest interest are not necessarily adjacent. Driving is the most convenient solution: from the A3 Salerno-Reggio Calabria highway, exit at Laino Borgo for the Calabrian side, or at Morano Calabro; for the Lucanian side, the reference is the Lauria exit. The town of Civita, a privileged access point to the Gorges of Raganello, is reachable from Castrovillari in about half an hour. By train, the nearest stations are Castrovillari and Lagonegro, from which you must continue by car or with local public transport.
What to Do in Summer at Pollino National Park
Summer is the season when Pollino National Park offers the widest array of activities to undertake within its territory. Trekking is certainly a privileged way to discover this landscape, thanks to a dense network of trails that provide routes suitable for every level and objective. The Piani di Ruggio and Colle dell’Impiso, in the municipality of Viggianello, are the classic starting points for high-altitude excursions, well signposted and reachable by car.
For those who love freshwater, the Pollino does not disappoint. The Raganello Canyon, carved by the same-named torrent between limestone walls that rise up to 400 meters in places, is one of the park’s most spectacular spots and can be explored either on foot along the edge of the gorge or via canyoning directly in the riverbed, always with the guidance of experienced guides. The Lao River is also a summer protagonist at Pollino, with navigable sections for kayaking and rafting on the rapids. The waters of both rivers are crystal clear and cool, a welcome relief on the hottest days.
Beyond the outdoor activities tied to its abundant natural offerings, the Park also hosts a rich cultural and anthropological heritage, too often undervalued. Inside, for example, live some of Italy’s most important Arbëreshë communities, Albanian-origin communities that settled these lands between the 15th and 18th centuries to escape Ottoman encroachment.
In towns such as Civita, San Paolo Albanese, San Costantino Albanese and others, the Arbëreshë language, the Greek-Catholic rite, traditional costumes, and a distinct cuisine are still preserved today.
Finally not to be missed is the Castelsaraceno Tibetan Bridge, which at 586 meters in length is the longest in the world and connects Pollino Park with the Lucanian Apennine Park.
Must-Do Hikes in Pollino National Park
The most beautiful hike to undertake in Pollino National Park is considered by many to be the ascent to the Serra di Crispo. It starts from Colle dell’Impiso, at 1573 meters in the municipality of Viggianello, accessible by car. You then follow the IPV4 trail as it descends toward the Vacquarro Plains along the Frido stream. The path then climbs toward Serra di Crispo, at an altitude of 2054 meters, a ridgeline where some of the oldest, most contorted, and spectacular loricate pine specimens in the entire park grow. This place is nicknamed the Garden of the Gods: the gigantic trunks with white bark gleam in the sun among the bare rocks, in a landscape that feels primordial and moving. The elevation gain is demanding, but the route is well marked. In midsummer, starting in the early hours of the morning is advised to avoid the scorching sun while walking.
The splendid village of Civita, whose Arbëreshë name means “eagle’s nest,” speaks through its very position: it is perched on the edge of a vertiginous gorge, with a view over the Raganello Gorges that literally takes your breath away. From here begins one of the park’s most scenic routes: you walk through the village, reach the viewpoint from which you overlook the entire gorge, then descend along a path toward the so-called Devil’s Bridge, an ancient stone bridge located about 50 meters above the riverbed of the Raganello torrent. The descent is steep but short. The return to the village, with the gorge behind and the massif’s profiles before your eyes, is a true spectacle. The circuit around the small village and its surprising natural surroundings is not particularly demanding: a nearly 7-kilometer walk with less than 400 meters of ascent.
If Civita and Serra di Crispo represent two harsh natural environments with sparse vegetation, to escape the heat you can opt for a hike to discover the Ancient Beech Forest of Cozzo Ferriero, as mentioned one of UNESCO’s World Heritage sites since 2017.
It is a primary beech forest, with specimens over 400 years old: true giants of the woods. A trail runs through it that leads to Cozzo Ferriero, after which the hill is named, a summit at 1790 meters. To undertake the hike, you start from the Fasanelli Refuge and ascend to Cozzo in about five kilometers, with a steady but continuous ascent. Walking among the trees is always enjoyable, but the numerous panoramic views over the Lucanian and Calabrian slopes of the Park—where the forest ends—are not to be missed, offering a wide horizon to behold.
