On the Bologna Apennines there is a place that, with its atmospheres and arches, carries us on a flight of fancy all the way to Andalusia. We are talking about the Rocchetta Mattei in Grizzana Morandi, which has reopened the Arab-Moorish wing to the public after a closure that had lasted since 2015. The novelty? Thanks to a team of volunteers, it is possible to access it by visiting a single wing, or the entire structure with well-prepared guides who recount the history and details.
Rocchetta Mattei reopens the Count’s secret rooms
The new itinerary takes you beyond the most photographed rooms of Rocchetta, letting you discover the Ceramics Hall, the Flamingos Hall and the ground-floor spaces designated for the kitchen and dining. Then you ascend along a more intimate route to visit the Uri Loggia, the Turkish lounge, the Turkish chamber, and the Hall of Mirrors. But the real gem is revealed in the Count Mattei’s apartments, where the violet sitting room, the English-style sitting room, and his own room spark dreams even before you read the name. The Vision Room is unmissable, where a fresco directly recalls the episode that, according to the count’s tale, inspired his therapeutic theories with a play of light and shadow.
Rocchetta Mattei, the castle saved
Cesare Mattei wasn’t exactly a conventional figure. Born in 1809, he was a politician, scholar and the inventor of electrohomeopathy, a practice today lacking scientific recognition. His drops became so famous they even appeared in Dostoevsky’s The Brothers Karamazov. In 1850 he chose a rocky promontory overlooking the Reno valley to build his residence. The result? A bold collage of medieval towers, Gothic references, Moorish decorations and Liberty-style details. If you’ve already seen the Court of the Lions, inspired by the Alhambra in Granada, you know what we’re talking about. Yet Rocchetta hides another trick: humble materials like plaster, wood and stucco imitate marbles and worked stones. The Carisbo Foundation’s purchase in 2005 marks a new life thanks to the mobilization of volunteers and led in 2015 to the first visits being halted, only to restart in 2026.
How to visit Rocchetta Mattei
Rocchetta Mattei rises in the municipality of Grizzana Morandi in the province of Bologna and offers 3 routes: the Noble Wing, with the renowned Court of the Lions and the chapel; the Arab-Moorish Wing, dedicated to the count’s private spaces; or the complete tour, which joins both sections. It can be reached by car, and there is parking available uphill from the castle.
The full ticket price starts at 12 euros for a single route, or you can purchase the full tour for 20 euros through the official site rocchettamattei.it. Access is allowed only with a guide and after mandatory booking through the portal. An important note: in the Moorish wing there are narrow stairs and tight passages, with no elevator. If you have mobility difficulties, check in advance which routes are accessible. And remember the new parking on the hillside above the castle. An extra reason to visit it? Take in the surroundings. A few kilometers away there is indeed a medieval Bologna village with stone lanes and old houses: La Scola, an original idea for a weekend.
