Sometimes, to allow ourselves to be amazed, one must change perspective—literally in this case. From the steps of this Roman theater, the gaze goes beyond the point where the stage once stood and embraces the Volturno Valley. About twenty meters higher, on the highest terrace of Monte San Nicola, the remains of a temple can still be discerned.
We are in Pietravairano, in the Caserta hinterland, where two Roman-era buildings occupy the same hillside. But the most incredible thing is to think that what led to the site’s rediscovery, in the early 2000s, was precisely the view from above.
What is the Pietravairano Theater-Temple
The Pietravairano Theater-Temple is an archaeological complex from the late Republican period, dated to the 2nd and 1st centuries BCE. The theater and the temple were part of the same project, laid out on two artificial terraces at different elevations. At the top, the rectangular plan of the temple is still recognizable. Lower down, the semicircular cavea of the theater opens up, the space reserved for spectators, carved by taking advantage of the natural slope of the mountain. The stage occupied the southern edge of the terrace, reinforced by four small towers.
Observing the complex from the two terraces, located in the province of Caserta, helps to understand how it was built. From the theater you can see how the rows of seats follow the curve of the slope, while from the temple you grasp the sanctuary’s position between the Apennine ridge and the Campanian plain. On the clearest days, the panorama stretches from the middle Volturno valley to the Trebulani mountains.
The site’s rediscovery began with a hang-gliding flight. Flying over Monte San Nicola, the local historian Nicolino Lombardi noticed some masonry on the relief. The subsequent excavation campaigns and restorations allowed researchers to identify the arrangement of the two buildings. The seating areas have also been restored to welcome spectators again. In September 2026, for example, the site hosted a performance of the Iliad as part of the Velia Teatro Festival.
Where it is located and how to reach it
The site sits on Monte San Nicola, above the village of Pietravairano, in the Caserta province, between the Matese and Roccamonfina. The starting point for reaching it on foot is the Sant’Eremo hamlet. Arriving by car, you pass through the historic center toward the upper part of the town, passing near the sanctuary of Santa Maria della Vigna. Once you leave the car at Sant’Eremo, you walk about 500 meters along a dirt track to reach the marked trailhead.
For those traveling without a car, you can reach Vairano-Caianello station in Vairano Scalo by train and continue with the AIR Campania bus line 17-CE to Pietravairano. Buses that pass through the village are infrequent, so it’s wise to check outbound and return schedules. From the stop you continue on foot toward the Sant’Eremo district, from which the route to the Theater-Temple begins.
For the hike, you can count about 45 minutes uphill and 30 downhill, in addition to the time spent visiting. The path features steep sections and the ground can be slippery, so it is advisable to wear shoes with good grip. Before leaving, it is useful to check access modalities with the Municipality of Pietravairano.
Already along the ascent, a first glimpse of the santuario di Santa Maria della Vigna and the village rooftops opens up. At the top, the town gives way to the valley. Yet, it is from the terraces that the place’s peculiarity truly comes to light, with the ancient stage before you and the profile of the mountains just beyond.
