Facing the town of Hvar, perched on the western coast of the island that shares its name, there lies a green and blue crescent that seems laid out for exploration by the sea. These are the Pakleni Islands, also known in Croatian as Paklinski otoci, a small archipelago in central Dalmatia made up of 16 islets and rocks that stretch for about ten kilometers.
It is an realm of white rocks, transparent waters, the scent of Mediterranean scrub, and coves sheltered by pines. Their name may be misleading. The word “Pakleni” is often linked to hell due to a similarity with the Croatian term pakao, but the history tells a very different tale: the origin comes from paklina, a dark resin obtained from pines that for centuries was used by Hvar’s sailors to waterproof the hulls of wooden vessels.
A precious material for the local caulkers, the craftsmen who specialize in building and maintaining ships. Far from being hellish islands, they are the “islands of resin,” a name tied to the sea, to work, and to the region’s long nautical tradition. Protected since 1968 and included in the ecological network Natura 2000, the Pakleni safeguard valuable habitats, life-rich seabeds, and landscapes that remain faithful to their Mediterranean soul.
Sveti Klement, the green heart of the Pakleni Islands
The largest island of the archipelago bears the name Sveti Klement, or Saint Clement, and represents the reference point for those arriving from Hvar. Here lies a large part of the Pakleni’s activity, thanks to the presence of three small settlements, trails winding through the vegetation, seaside restaurants, and some of Croatia’s most famous coves.
The most well-known corner is Palmižana, a sheltered bay on the island’s northern side, celebrated for its ACI marina, one of the Adriatic’s most appreciated, and for the striking Meneghello botanical garden that hosts exotic plants, agaves, palms, lavender, and rosemary. The nearby Vinogradišće Bay, on the other hand, is the most photographed spot in the archipelago as the sea adopts hues ranging from emerald green to deep turquoise.
A little farther away lie less crowded corners such as Taršće, regarded by many as one of the Pakleni’s most beautiful bays, thanks to its clear seabed inhabited by fish, sea urchins, crabs, and small octopuses. Another special spot is Soline, a bay tied to the island’s Roman past: here remains of a villa from that era and traces of ancient thermal activity have been found.
Between Palmižana and Soline there is also Perna, a small rarity in the Croatian Adriatic for its sandy beaches, which are uncommon along this coastline.
Marinkovac, the two-faced island between tranquil coves and legendary parties
A short distance from Sveti Klement lies Marinkovac, the archipelago’s second largest island. Its character is completely different from nearby San Clemente, as it hosts two opposing identities, one more relaxed and natural, the other tied to the summer social scene. On the calmer side are the Mlini and Ždrilca bays, beloved by families and boaters thanks to calm waters and spots ideal for a stopover on a yacht.
Mlini is often cited among the Pakleni’s most beautiful bays. In the center of the small gulf sits a islet that, depending on the tide, seems to become a peninsula or a tiny island. The most famous part of Marinkovac, however, is Stipanska, home to the renowned Carpe Diem Beach. Born in the early 2000s, this beach club has become one of Hvar’s iconic symbols of nightlife.
By day it offers an elegant version of Mediterranean relaxation, with a pool, sunbeds, cocktails, and music. After sunset, the atmosphere shifts, and the venue becomes a landmark for those seeking parties and international DJs. A short distance away lies Ždrilca, a natural channel frequented by numerous vessels during the summer months, where traditional restaurants open onto the water, including places that preserve the spirit of the old konoba Dalmatian taverns born from the region’s farming and seafaring culture.
Jerolim, the wild island with the Adriatic’s oldest naturist beach
The small is the closest to Hvar and almost feels like a natural extension of the town. Its fame is mainly tied to Kordovon, one of the Adriatic’s earliest naturist beaches. The FKK tradition, short for Freikörperkultur (free-body culture), arrived here in the fifties thanks to the first German visitors who chose this coastline to experience the sea more freely.
Even today Jerolim preserves that simple, authentic atmosphere, far from the loud tourism. The island’s rocky shores offer numerous spots to swim in deep, clear waters. Among pines and light-colored rocks lie small secluded corners, frequented mainly by those seeking a quiet day amid nature and sea.
The two smallest islets of the archipelago lie right at the mouth of Hvar’s harbor, playing a strategic naval guarding role since the Middle Ages. Pokonji Dol stands out on the horizon thanks to its monumental lighthouse built in 1872 by the Austro-Hungarian Navy. The square white stone structure rises at the center of the circular rock, topped by a metal lantern about 15 meters tall that continues to signal the safe route to fishermen and ferries. The rocky coast of the islet is whipped by currents of the channel and hosts colonies of royal gulls nesting among the calcareous crevices.
Galešnik, located just 200 meters from the town port, shelters a fascinating history linked to military defenses. On its small surface sits a stone fort built by French troops at the beginning of the 19th century, during the brief Napoleonic era. The thick walls and gun slits have been recently restored, turning the old powder magazine into a small museum with a traditional tavern. From this point along the coast, the view of Hvar’s main square and the Fortica fortress is simply incomparable.
Navigating among these tiny islets reveals the true spirit of the Pakleni Islands, a mosaic of maritime architecture, pristine seabeds, and Dalmatian history capable of captivating anyone who chooses to explore their secrets.
