Myths and legends often conceal fragments of truth. And it is with one of the the most enigmatic and intriguing female figures we know from the Odyssey that we head toward a Lazio location rich in wonders to discover.
We are talking about Circe, a goddess capable of turning men into animals, often described as a sorceress, daughter of Helios and the nymph Perse, who in the Odyssey lives on an island to the east, later by some identified with the promontory of Circeo, in Lazio.
And there is a book that is an absolute masterpiece, which allows us to know her in a more “human” version, a woman with emotions, feelings, strength and fragility, letting us discover her entire life. It is Circe by Madeline Miller, published in Italy a few years ago by Marsilio, a true bestseller, one of those novels that captivate us, excite us and leave a lasting mark.
Alla scoperta del Circeo in compagnia di un capolavoro
Books never age; masterpieces are the perfect example of how some stories can outlive time and the many publications that the publishing market offers, becoming books to browse and reopen whenever you want to relive certain emotions. One such novel is Circe by Madeline Miller, the perfect volume to keep us company as we explore the southernmost area of Lazio, one of the most fascinating coasts in all of Italy.
There, it seems Circe—the mythological figure who encounters Odysseus during the long wanderings that keep him away from his Ithaca for as long as ten years after the Trojan War—lived. These are the places we come to know and love through Miller’s novel devoted to her.
If we can align the goddess’s mythological places with the Circeo Promontory, reading this novel while visiting them becomes a memorable journey.
The stops along the way are numerous. And why not start right from San Felice Circeo? This charming village where history and legend come alive. It is not only famous because tales say that the sorceress Circe lived here, but also for the presence of the Knights Templar. A tower, attributed to the Knights Templar, stands in Piazza Lanzuisi and is a must-see. Then there are religious and civil palaces, streets to wander, letting yourself be captivated by the atmosphere and the enchanting views.
The entire area lies within the Circeo National Park, offering nature trails, celebrated towns, the Ponza Island and the Zannone Island, to name just two of the archipelago, and a precious biodiversity.
Naturally, the coastline is not to be missed, waiting to be explored: a must-visit even in the off-season to soak up beauty thanks to a varied coastline and crystal-clear waters.
The Places of Circe
There are places that give the sense of entering into a connection with Circe, whose silhouette is said to be visible along the mountainside. For instance, the cave near Torre Paola (built to defend the coast from Saracen raids), where it is said Odysseus hid his ships. The cavity itself measures about 100 meters in length, 30 meters in width and 25 meters in height, large enough to have housed them.
Equally captivating is the Grotta delle Capre, reachable by sea and land and about 35 meters long. The height ranges from 15 to 20 meters. It is here that Circe herself is said to have dwelt.
Among the better known is the Grotta Guattari: in this cavern, a Neanderthal skull was unearthed in 1939.
These, of course, are only a few of the many places worth visiting. The area offers pristine nature, ancient history, and signs of a distant past, all wrapped in a hint of legend that makes it even more captivating. And there is nothing better than visiting Circeo with Madeline Miller’s masterful novel, Circe, for company.
