Visiting Mereruka’s Mastaba, in the Saqqara necropolis, means – if you know how to read it – stepping into a genuine “stone book” on Ancient Egypt, which tells in detail about daily life, society, and religious beliefs of the Old Kingdom. It is one of the best-preserved and richest tombs in the entire site, beloved by archaeologists and still not widely known to the public.
Saqqara: the Old Kingdom necropolis
Mereruka’s Mastaba is located at Saqqara, the main necropolis of the V and VI dynasties (2340-2360 BCE), one of the most extensive and important archaeological areas in Egypt. The site remains fully active: in recent years new sarcophagi of priests, funerary galleries, and ritual objects have been uncovered, and several teams of archaeologists and Egyptologists continue to work daily.
Saqqara is famous chiefly for Djoser’s Step Pyramid and for Teti’s Pyramid, the first to present the Pyramid Texts: inner inscriptions, drawings, and hieroglyphs. Until then, indeed, the walls of tombs and pyramids were bare; but from that moment, decorations and texts became common in the places of devotion of Ancient Egypt, honoring the life of the deceased and serving as a guide for his journey to the afterlife.
Although many visitors stay at Saqqara only for the Step Pyramid, according to local guides here “you could stay a week”, such is the vast and fascinating richness that the necropolis holds.
Who was Mereruka
Mereruka was one of the most powerful officials under Pharaoh Teti, vizier, head of justice and priest. In the interior depictions he is recognizable by his leopard-skin garments, a symbol of high-ranking priests.
His tomb is one of the most important mastabas of all Ancient Egypt, precisely for the wealth of its decorations that perfectly narrate life daily in minute detail. Unfortunately not everything is visible: the upper portion was looted over the centuries to reuse the material in the construction of other buildings; while the lower portion has arrived almost intact to our time because it remained covered (and protected) under the desert sand.
The mastaba has been opened to the public again two years ago, after a period of closure to preserve its conservation, and to “let it rest,” as local guides say with great respect.
What to see in Mereruka’s Mastaba
The tomb is made of calcareous stone but very compact, with engravings on the exterior and interior, and it is especially important for the precise and refined depictions of daily life, with astonishing details of the Nile, and incredibly realistic drawings of animals, plants, tools and implements. There would be enough to write a book about it, but let us look at the most remarkable moments.
The First Hall: The World of the Nile
The entrance hall is dedicated to the Nile, depicted in the figure of the god Hapi, the hermaphrodite deity and symbol of fertility. On the walls one can recognize papyrus boats, fish such as carp, eels and pikes; birds like ibises and hoopoes; hippopotamuses and crocodiles, with a particularly striking life-scene where a hippopotamus attacks a crocodile. There are also scenes of hunting with a boomerang, used to strike birds in flight.
Already in this hall, the artists demonstrate a remarkable naturalistic knowledge of fauna and the environment, and it is easy to get lost in these almost photographic representations.
The Second Hall: Gold Working
On the right-hand wall is illustrated, step by step, the entire process of goldworking. The most curious detail lies in the lowest strip, showing the creation of jewelry: all the artisans featured in the scene are dwarfs. This is no accident. Guides explain the reasons for the choice: dwarfs were few (and thus easily traceable in case of theft), endowed with great manual skill, and with a physiological advantage, because after age 35 they developed myopia but could continue to see up close very well, making them ideal for precision workmanship.
The Third Hall: The Court
Here are depicted fishing scenes and, on the left, a striking, highly detailed scene: a court. Reading from left to right one encounters the judge with scribes busy rewriting the verdict, the condemned, the police with clubs, and finally a man protesting because he refuses to pay taxes.
The Well of the Sarcophagus and the False Door
Before reaching the last chamber, behind a modern grate one can see the well through which the sarcophagus was lowered. Even here, without the guidance of an expert guide it is difficult to grasp the procedure: the well was filled with sand, on which the sarcophagus rested; then it was slowly lowered, removing the sand little by little from below.
Directly opposite the grate, a large false door – common to many tombs – served for the passage of the Ka (soul) and the Ba (invisible ego) toward the afterlife.
The Hall of Mereruka’s Statue
Finally one reaches the largest hall, with the walls decorated in ochre, a natural pigment that is very durable. The great central statue of Mereruka is oriented toward magnetic north, a symbolic direction toward the star of Osiris, toward the world of the dead.
On the left wall, some scenes of Nile navigation are reproduced with sailors at work and others resting on the typical beds with headrests<.> The boats with sails spread are an important detail: Nile navigation involved sails set from North to South (while conversely the current toward the delta was used); for this reason it is possible to determine that the ships depicted were headed toward Abydos, the sacred city dedicated to Osiris, to the South.
Practical information
The complete ticket for Saqqara costs 1000 EGP (about 30 euros) and includes access to several tombs. Alternatively, one can purchase entry to the main attractions only, also at the on-site ticket office.
Saqqara is located about 30 km from Cairo and is perfect for a day trip. It can be reached by taxi, with a private driver (always arranging a round trip) or with organized tours departing directly from the hotel. The reference airport is Cairo International, served from Italy with direct flights, operated by low-cost carriers and by the national carrier Egyptair from Milan and Rome.
Visiting the site without an Italian-language guide risks missing many stories, symbols and details, of which the site is richly endowed. To plan a visit from Italy, the Gattinoni Travel network can be a reference for organizing transfers, a guide and visits.
For the visit it is wise to bring water, a hat and sun protection; wear comfortable shoes and a light scarf to cover the shoulders. Avoiding the hottest hours, one should dedicate at least 3 hours to the site.
