Dreamlike sea, paradise beaches and mouth-watering food. It’s all true, but it’s equally real that central Sardinia hides wild corners carved by the elements over the millennia that leave you spellbound. The Bau Mela Natural Pools, in fact, almost make you forget (and with no remorse) the island’s most famous image, made up of turquoise coasts and long stretches of sand.
In the territory of Villagrande Strisaili, on the edge of Barbagia, the Rio Baccu Silacaccero crosses a zone rich in ancient oaks and junipers. At about 845 metres above sea level, the water changes pace and the rock its shape. The granite, worn smooth by the current over extremely long times, presents rounded basins, potholes, small drops and transparent pools. It is precisely this sequence that makes Bau Mela different from a simple waterfall.
The first cascade is the most imposing and feeds the main pool. A little further on, a second fall unfolds into smaller basins, reachable via the path along the stream. On hot days the temptation to enter the water is strong, but the temperature can be decidedly cool, especially after rainy spells. Around it, the vegetation helps give the place an almost primordial character.
Origin and formation of the Bau Mela Natural Pools
The absolute protagonist of this Sardinian treasure is granite, a hard rock that the current has progressively smoothed and carved. The Rio Baccu Silacaccero runs over it and, along its course, fluvial erosion has produced cavities, pools and natural potholes. The two-level configuration of the waterfalls makes this process particularly legible.
The upper fall concentrates the water into the largest pool, while the next drop distributes the current into a sequence of smaller pools. Heavy rains and seasonal variations can modify the river’s discharge and, consequently, the appearance of the pools: after a particularly wet period the aquatic landscape can appear much more impetuous than in the dry months.
The name Bau Mela has a less certain origin. Some interpretations associate “bau” with the Sardinian term for ford, while the meaning of “mela” remains more controversial and is linked, in some reconstructions, to the dark shape of a river cavity or to the Sardinian term related to the apple. However, these are linguistic hypotheses, lacking a single unambiguous explanation attested by institutional sources.
The human presence in this part of Ogliastra runs deep into ancient times. Nearby there are important testimonies of Nuragic civilization, among temples, villages and monumental tombs. The complex of S’Arcu ‘e Is Forros includes megara temples (among which one is particularly monumental) and a trilobate nuraghe, while Genna Troculu preserves a Nuragic village and a Giants’ Tomb. Sa Carcaredda adds another archaeological piece to a territory already inhabited and frequented since prehistory.
Visit, activities and things to see
Bau Mela is a natural place without direct tourist management. Access to the pools is therefore free and the site has a marked trail (classified as of medium difficulty). The area does not feature structured services such as bars or refreshment points, so it’s advisable to arrive equipped with water, shoes suitable for uneven terrain and everything needed for spending a few hours outdoors.
The route leads toward the torrent through the forest, up to the succession of waterfalls and pools. The largest pool represents the most scenic point, while the lower pools allow a closer look at how the water works on the rock. For those who love bathing in natural waters, the pools constitute the most inviting part of the visit. However, caution is required: wet stones, currents and varying depths make it essential to assess the torrent’s conditions before entering the water, especially after heavy rains.
A decidedly more technical experience is canyoning. Some activities organized in the area involve rope descents, dives and passages in the water, with an ascent around 7 metres indicated for a higher descent. This is a different activity from a simple hike and requires the use of specialized equipment, as well as the guidance of qualified operators.
The area then offers other reasons to extend the day. A path equipped with tables for resting leads to the Cascata di Sothai, which drops into the Canyon of Bau Vigo. In nearby Villanova Strisaili, at about 700 metres above sea level, the Gola di Pirincanes shows another face of the local granite, with the Rio ‘e Forru having carved a series of large natural basins called giants’ potholes.
Those who prefer to add an archaeological dimension can reach S’Arcu ‘e Is Forros and Sa Carcaredda, turning a naturalistic visit into an itinerary among water, granite and Nuragic civilization. The combination is one of the most interesting features of the upper Ogliastra, because in just a few kilometres it brings together mountain environment, hydraulic engineering and archaeology.
Where they are and how to get there
The Bau Mela Natural Pools are located in the municipality of Villagrande Strisaili, high Ogliastra in central-eastern Sardinia. The road reference is the old SS389 Lanusei-Nuoro, along the stretch about 10 kilometres from Villanova Strisaili, near the Bau Mela dam.
Arriving in the area of the old dam, the road gives way to vegetation and the presence of water becomes increasingly evident. The route toward the pools starts near the Colonia Montana di Bau Mela and follows the course of the torrent. Another option is to reach the dam area and continue on foot toward the waterfalls.
The dam adds a curious element to the visit: the Bau Mela barrier belongs to the water system of the Alto Flumendosa, together with the Bau Mandara and Bau Muggeris dams. The basin associated with the barrier covers about 92 square kilometres and the impounded capacity is around 100,000 cubic metres. Beside the wild environment stands a large infrastructure tied to the management of water resources in mountainous Sardinia.
Parking at the dam is limited and during peak periods it can become crowded. It is therefore better to avoid the central hours of the hot summer days, especially if the aim is to experience the torrent with greater calm.
